In the evenings, the River Inn restaurant, about a mile and a half north of Big Sur State Park, features Jake Stock and the Abalone Stompers Thursday through Saturday, beginning at 7 p.m. Stock's an old-timer around Big Sur who plays Dixieland jazz. We were told that River Inn also is a hot spot on Sunday afternoons. From 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. locals and visitors turn up for exotic coffee drinks, as well as the harder stuff, to listen to live music—usually jazz.
For our short trip, we opted to bow out of the music scene but stopped into the Riverside grocery for some more wine, firewood and marshmallows. Then we headed back to the campsite for a night of tending the fire, storytelling and stargazing. It's not often that city folk get to see this kind of light show. Falling asleep to the river's trickle is a peaceful way to end the day, especially after a long day of driving or hiking.
Being used to the comforts of Los Angeles, we hit Nepenthe again for breakfast, although there are plenty of other quaint restaurants to choose from. Instead of going back to Nepenthe, we were wooed to the smaller cafe Amphora, which is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. A female guitarist was making the rounds on the sundeck, serenading diners with folk songs.
An entire day can be spent hiking at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The most popular trails at the park are: Pfeiffer Falls, about a quarter-mile hike that ends up, you guessed it, at a waterfall; Valley View Trail, a six-tenths-of-a-mile stroll; Oak Grove Trail; which is a little more than a mile, and Buzzards Roost; a good trek of three tree-shrouded miles.
Majestic oaks, sycamores and redwoods tower high above, providing shade as sunlight dances down through the giant branches. Squirrels scamper by surprisingly close, apparently undanted by humans. Some of the other animals that can be seen are racoons, deer, foxes and opossums.
Another day trip is a sort of Old West adventure. The Andrew Molera State Park offers trail rides on horseback. The ride winds along the river, crossing it several times then goes through four of the area's large redwood groves. You'll travel across meadows and finally end up for a trot on the beach. When we went, our guide delighted in telling us interesting details about the area. For instance, did you know that a redwood releases as much as 160 gallons of water a day through its leaves? The water is collected at the trunk and a complex irrigation system protects the trees during forest fires. He also pointed out plants used in various herbal remedies. A small picnic is held at the end of each trip. Three rides are scheduled daily and reservations are required, but we found the stable very accommodating for private or special trips. The price is $50 per person and every cent is worth it.
If a swift gallop is too much of a kick in the pants for your taste, another attraction is the Big Sur Lightstation. The station, built in the 1800s, is the only operating lighthouse in California that's open to the public. The tour begins at 10 a.m. but visitors are told to be at the gate, about a quarter-mile north of Point Sur naval facility, by 9:30 a.m. Due to limited parking, only the first 15 cars are admitted. The tour last two to three hours. Because the hike goes up a 300-foot incline, it isn't recommended for children. The total cost is $2 per person.
Obviously, there's not enough time to do all these things on a weekend getaway and we really hated to leave. Luckily, going home is just as much fun as getting there. If you leave early enough, you can make a stop at Hearst Castle for a tour, but that's a whole story in itself.
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